First Aussie ride :(

Adjustable dogbones are better than fixed, you can adjust them to exactly what you need and do it without dismantling the suspension, once you've fitted them. Once back end feels right, lower front end by 5 to 10mm. Could also be a shock problem?

 

Lots of misconception flying about here.

Firstly - if you lower the rear of your bike, to maintain correct weight bias and steering geometry you MUST adjust the front to compensate. Fact!
But, as Megawatt says depending on your bikes stock trail this can be omitted until you have the found the most suitable height.

Secondly - don't use a hammer where you need a screwdriver. A metal fabricator may be able to make your lowering links but he may not understand suspension geometry, hell most mechanics don't.
Your handlebars impinging on the fork tops can be overcome by using heigher risers (the bit that bolts onto the yoke) but that said the relative amount you would have lowered the rear by to need that much front adjustment would likely be unridable.

Third - You need to approach this logically to get your confidence in your machine. Do the basic checks, set the suspension to standard height and adjustment all round, check your tyres for correct pressure, cables for slack, bearing play etc.
Then ride it.
Being able to touch the floor is nothing to do with how a bike corners, it only matters when you stop. If the bike isn't tracking in a bend correctly that's a geometry / suspension problem, the feeling that the back is trying to take a different line midway through the bend is down to rear compression - likely as a result of the poor geometry. Uneven feel in the corner is mostly front preload.
Start from a known position and adjust from there.

Forth - You don't need fancy adjustable suspension links, you only need to get your boot on the floor and you know already how low that is. What is needed is the suspension being brought back into alignment, that will stop the vague front end and the poor corner tracking.

Most basic approach is thus:
Fit original dogbones and set suspension to stock settings.
Measure height at 2 known points, 1 front 1 rear (bottom of fairing is fine for this).
Change dog bones and measure new rear height.
Adjust the fork protrusion to give a relative change - As MW says, this will likely only be a few mm at most.
Set your static sag - if nothing else almost all suspension comes with preload adjustment.
Ride bike.
Smiles.

Lastly - Don't bother hacking up your stock clutch lever, buy an adjustable one if yours isn't already. If it is than a motorcross easy pull level will be perfect for you, you can adjust the fulcrum to let you pull with 1 finger easily and the level position is totally adjust able.

 

He might even come thru' your hosp needing an oil change.

 

Well to update to this....Went for a 350km ride today with hubby (ER6N) and father-in-law (Hornet).

I'VE FOUND MY GROOVE (aka confidence) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ripped it around 3 mountain ranges in the wet and wasn't sitting in second gear. Even managed to keep up with hubby. Bout bloody time I say! Accident was in April and only feeling good on bike now (January)!!

So happy I've cracked a bottle of bubbly for myself

 

Amazing news

 

well done youand you could always send a few this way